Tonight in Sao Paolo, Brazil 89 women from around the world gather to compete in the 60th annual Miss Universe competition. What does this have to do with our readings on authenticity this week? Quite a bit, actually.
One of the primary components of the Miss Universe competition is the national costume parade. It is traditionally the opening event of the evening and entails a glittery display of essentialized representations of national identity. Many contestants from the Americas and the Caribbean don indigenous inspired dress that oftentimes sexualizes, trivializes, and misrepresents indigenous cultures. Take for example, Miss Canada’s costume from this year’s competition:
Image from the Native Appropriations blog. |
The amalgamation of Haida-inspired dress and Plains Indian headdress and the sloppy, machine-made look of each belie the cultural and historical inaccuracy of her dress. Miss Canada also physically performs a stereotypical version of indigeneity by crossing her arms just like the chiefs in all the Disney films do. I haven’t seen the competition yet, but I won’t be surprised if Miss Canada tops her performance off by raising her right arm and greeting the audience with a resounding “HOWWW.”
I know. I still haven’t gotten to why this all matters or what it has to do with authenticity. For this I’ll turn to Edward Said, whose work on Orientalism tells us much about how representations are created and validated[1]. Miss Canada’s rendition of indigeneity and other representations of Indigenous dress and culture on display at the Miss Universe competition are more harmful than the average hipster headdress-wearing concert-goer because the beauty queens are “authorized” representatives of their respective nations. Everything from the sashes worn by the contestants to their country-based monikers (Miss U.S.A., Miss Brazil, etc.) to declarations that the event is a “mini United Nations” in Miss Universe behind-the-scenes videos[2] create the illusion that these women are authorized, authentic representations of their home nations.
In other words, through a number of signifiers, the competition creates the allusion of authenticity and as a result the identities performed therein might be complacently accepted by international viewers as true representations of national identity. These authorized misconceptions are problematic on many levels but perhaps the most egregious is the hypersexualization of indigeneity. The sexy, bikini-ed rendition of the Peruvian scissor dancer from last year’s competition provides a perfect example of how indigenous dress – in this case, dress traditionally worn exclusively by men – is recast as sexy and feminine:
This sexualizaition of indigeneity is tool of colonization that, as scholars like Andrea Smith have pointed out, has been used to justify colonial logic for centuries[3]. That logic goes something like this: Indigenous peoples and their bodies – and by logical extension, their property and land - are sexual objects that are inherently violable and thus eligible for rape, colonization, and appropriation according to the needs of the settler state. The manifestations of this logic are evident everywhere from the extraordinarily high rates of sexual violence against Native women to the rampant exploitation of Native lands that continues today.
The Miss Universe competition, at first glimpse, may seem like a benign and frivolous display of world beauty. Once we look more deeply at these underlying messages about indigeneity, the justifications of colonial logic, and the way in which those representations are made to seem authentic, we become keyed in to a far more troubling and deeply historical pattern.
Organizers of this year’s competition anticipate “close to a billion viewers from around the world.” The Miss Universe website was so heavily trafficked this evening that the site was down for several hours. These images and representations matter – and should be interrogated – because of how widely viewed they are, because of the careful manner in which the illusion of authenticity is constructed, and finally because they are embedded with messages about indigeneity that reflect a deep history of colonial violation and exploitation that we must begin to dismantle.
[1] Said, Edward. “Introduction to Orientalism” The Routledge Critical and Cultural Theory Reader. Ed. Neil Badmington and Julia Thomas. London and New York: Routledge, 2008. 213-233.
[2] Miss Universe Website. Miss Universe Organization, 2011.
[3] Smith, Andrea. Conquest: Sexual Violence and American Indian Genocide. Cambridge: South End Press, 2005. Print.
Miss Universe Canada is of Cree heritage and a member of the Opaskwayak Cree Nation. Her headdress, with pan-Indian elements, is from her own nation - not the "plains". The colors and patterns on her dress are culturally and personally significant. None of it is offensive at all. It is the kind of regalia one would see at just about any First Nation powwow all across Canada.
ReplyDeleteInteresting. Thanks...I wasn't able to find that information in any other online sources. But her dress is Haida inspired, not Cree. And by all appearances not Haida-made. I think that regardless of her heritage she's representing a stylized version of indigeneity to the world and so it's valuable to tease out some of the underlying messages in that representation. Also the problem is A LOT more widespread than Canada so the issues exist and should be discussed regardless.
ReplyDeleteHer dress is inspired by the colors and patterns symbolic to her nation. Those include Pan-Indian elements. If you see Haida inspiration there, it is unremarkable. Just as her headdress may have its origins as a Lakota war bonnet. Again, that is unremarkable. I grew up with Narragansett Indians in Rhode Island who also wear feather headdresses. They are considered sacred additions to their regalia. These are all Pan-Indian elements and very common in 21st Century Indian powwwow culture. As far as your opinion about her appearance ("stylized version of indigenity") and what perhaps you think it should have been, that's simply not your place to judge. Nothing about her regalia is inappropriate. She is representing her nation beautifully.
ReplyDeleteMy apologies then. Shows you how much I pay attention to beauty pageants.
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ReplyDeleteYikes. This is all kinds of wrong, and I find it offensive on many levels. In particular, I think it contributes to the relegation of Indigenous ceremonial clothing as spectacle for consumption, rather than respected for what it represents to the particular Nation from which it emerges. They are part of something sacred (read: not our business, not ours to gush over in some faux appreciation of Indigenous culture). JimP, Pan-Indianism is really more of a strategic philosophical movement to work collectively against the forces of colonialism than it is about the fusion of appropriated 'styles' to make a pretty dress that gives the impression that Canada is entirely an Indigenous-friendly place. This dress would, however, make an interesting gallery piece in a "deconstructing colonialism" installation.
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